Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
