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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.